Ok, did more research on the block casting numbers:
This motor was made Feb 25th, 1966, and likely came out of a Chevy 1 ton (Dump) Truck of the same year. It should bolt up nice to the 200r4 tranny. More pics soon…
Here we are pre valve cover. I actually needed a good sized spacer to cram these rockers under the lid. Going to add the intake/exhaust this weekend so stay tuned for more pics…
I just received the exhaust headers in from Langdon’s Stovebolt Engine Co. and they look amazing, especially with the dark grey powder coating. I cannot wait to install them =) and they even came with the “no weld design” flange kit parts.
Ray’s Head Shop in Virginia Beach, VA is doing a fine job on the rebuild and should have the work done by next week some time. When I stopped in yesterday, I was able to see the progress on the bolt-in lump ports (in the intake ports on the head). The lumps fit great, but the installation was trickier than the you tube video showed. Thankfully Ray has a handle on it and I’m looking forward to bringing her home soon.
(That’s the massive crank on the shelf in the back.)
For the Inline 6 Chevy 292:
** 264 cam, hyd lifters, springs w/damper, chrome molly retainers,
** HD valve locks & heat treated pushrods
** Bolt in Lump Port Kit
** Brass freeze plugs
** New cam bearings.
** New Rod Bearings.
Block: blueprinted, Detail it- remove casting flash, burrs, sharp edges- anything inside that will cut fingers, catch gunk or impede oil flow.
Enlarge pushrod pathways.
Deburr and smooth the oil entry hole from the oil pump and smooth around central return boss. Replace oil filter bypass valve.
Crankshaft: chamfer oil holes, balanced (if needed).
The recommended bearing clearance is between .0006 and .0036 (Factory clearance is between .010 and .025)
Crank end play recommended to range between .002 and .010
Bore: .030 (Stock bore is 3.875”)
(Torqueplate is recommended during honing.)
Pistons: Looking for around 9.5:1 compression &molly rings.
Balance pistons and rods if needed.
Rod Bearing Clearance: Recommended between .0012 and .0037
Lump ports installed.
Milling the head:
Shooting for a 70CC chamber. The rule for CC change is for every .007 cut, 1 CC will be lost from chamber.
The compression height of the piston should be made so that only .015 is needed to be milled from the deck of engine to “Zero Deck” the engine. Stock pistons require .030-.035 or more to zero deck which also weakens the deck.
Cut valve seat for intake valve size 1.94
Cut seat for exhaust valve- Install hardened seats first (shallowest/ thinnest). Size is 1.60
Use a 75 degree bowl cutter and remove majority of material from intake valve throat. Cut to within 1/8” of the intake seat.
Both the intake and exhaust bowls should be blended. Do not remove material from the short side radius or either valve, just smooth and blend.
Guide boss machined for modern positive seals
Rocker studs are pulled
Rocker stands milled down
Rocker stands threaded for 7/16 studs
Recheck the head & deck surfaces are flat to insure good head gasket sealing.
Got into the motor. Looks surprisingly great inside. No troubles getting it apart. On to the machine shop…
The body is now nestled snugly in my one-car garage… where I needed the space to tear down my motor… and do laundry… and store other stuff…
Crap, I need a bigger garage.
Welp- I had hoped to find the body after I had the rolling chassis ready, but a body like this doesn’t come around too often so I jumped at the chance. Now I am seriously considering renting a space to keep it while I complete the chassis, but that’s just more money I don’t want to throw into it.
In the mean time I will keep the body on rollers and hump it in and out of the garage every single time I need the room. Hell- I need the exercise. Besides- I can tear down the engine in the driveway.
Next pics: A Chevy 292 Inline 6 dis assembly.
